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Disclaimer
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You Are
Here: Management Updates
Date: September 5, 2001 If you did not use imidacloprid (Merit™ among others) or halofenozide (Mach 2™ among others) earlier in the year, and you are just discovering that you have grub activity, you can consider using one of the quicker acting materials, like bendiocarb (Turcam™) or trichlorfon (Dylox™). Turcam takes three to seven days to start working, so if you are going to use it, plan to make the applications no later than 10 September. Dylox works more quickly, and grubs will be affected as quickly as one or two days after application, so treatments normally can be delayed as late as 20 September (and possibly even later). If you used Turcam within the past week and are wondering whether it is going to work for you, go back to the treated areas and collect a few of the grubs. Study them carefully - the first sign that an insecticide is killing a grub is a very subtle color change. The body begins to turn a pale yellow or honey color, often most noticeably right behind the head. In addition, affected grubs are much less active - their legs will not wriggle as much, the body is less firm. The color change will begin to become apparent about four to seven days after an application of a material like Turcam, and then the grub begins to decline rapidly. If most of the grubs you inspect are showing the color change or are beginning to look a little piqued, you can figure the application is working and the grubs are "on the way out". If the grubs still look healthy (gray color along the back or tail, steady creamy color, active legs, firm or turgid body) and it has been at least a week since you treated, you may need to make a follow-up application with Dylox. As always, whatever action you take, YOU MUST WATER THE INSECTICIDE IN. And keep in mind that a few grubs in an area will not lead to major turf damage. ONLY USE AN INSECTICIDE IN AREAS WHERE GRUB POPULATIONS EXCEED TOLERANCE LEVELS. (Those levels vary with species, and are lowest for European chafers, highest for asiatic garden beetles.) - Submitted by: Dr. Pat Vittum |
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